La Bourgeoisie

Fettered Fashion

...Putting the S&M into H&M

From Burberry to Mulberry and even a rogue Tory MP, it seems everyone’s getting a little hot under the collar (and leash) this spring. Last season’s floaty florals have been dropped faster than a call-girl’s knickers in favour of all things leather, latex and downright kinky. The A/W catwalks took us back to the Dark Ages with suites of masked, chastity belted dominatrixes (oh, and a few clothes). Dolce & Gabbana’s 2008 advertising campaign took this one step further with whip-toting models forcing their half-naked male subjects into submission.

But by no means is this fashion’s first dabbling in fetishism: Vivienne Westwood, the Queen mother of kink, pioneered the audacious punk style of the 1970s with her exhibitionist PVC and rubber designs. Her first shop, aptly named ‘Sex’, introduced the taboo of exhibitionism to Chelsea’s ladies who lunch, marking the start of fashion’s intensifying penchant for the unconventional. From Gaultier’s ‘bullet-cone’ corset to Versace’s 1992 strap-on slitted creations, it appears the forbidden has increasingly found its way into the mainstream.

More recently Gareth Pugh’s LFW collection was brimming with aggressive sexuality, most memorably his inflatable balloon garnments reminiscent of blow-up dolls, and what appeared to be a cellophane catsuit.
The high fashion industry is undeniably one of extremes, and the high-street offers some welcome watered-down alternatives, from studded leather pencil skirts and whip-esque fringing at Kate Moss Topshop, to latex vests and those good old wet-look leggings at American Apparel.

Pugh describes his titillating creations as “a struggle between lightness and darkness.” Channel this juxtaposition by teaming feminine nudes and chiffon with stiff black leathers for vicar’s daughter meets Bettie Page sex appeal. Keep make-up neutral, submissive and bambi-eyed for maximum contrast with madam-like multi-strapped, gravity defying stilettos.

As Valerie Steele wisely declared, "to understand contemporary fashion, it is crucial to explore fetishism.” The contemporary fusion of these worlds, far from mysoginism makes a positive and wholly Amazonian statement...’couture Catwoman’ if you will.

And besides if fetishism defines "an object of unreasonably excessive attention or reverence" then hold me down and spank me silly as my need for sweet Burberry sandal gratification positively verges on the sado-Masochistic.